Part 3, painting and varnishing and more repairs 14/11/10 - 20/12/10 about 5 weeks.
Due to weathering on the wood I was fairly sure the majority of the hull would have to be painted but I could see what looked like a sound wood line along the top of the hull. I decided to leave a strip of wood that I would varnish. To give a nice clean line I glued some mahogany strips along the side. I also wanted to reinforce the rear seat as it was a little flexible as the ply has been repaired so I also added some more strips on here and screwed them through the ply into the underside strips. I also replaced all the brass screws that I could, most were badly corroded as she'd been in the sea at some stage in her life. Now she was ready for paint.But what paint? I wasn't going to cut corners here but after reading up decided that epoxy based paint might be too stiff for an old wooden hull. International paints toplac is not a paint that is designed for permanent submersion but as I can't see her being in the water for more than 8 - 10 hours I think It's good enough for that. For the varnish I settled for Deks Olje 1 & 2 because of the good penetration and ease of repair.Shopping list: Paint all 750ml - 2 x grey Yacht primer. 1 x white precote. 1 x red precote. 1 x rustic red toplac. 1 x ivory toplac. Varnish all 1 ltr 2x deks' part 1. 2 x deks' part 2. The wife was right, this was starting to cost!So reading the instructions on the tin this was going to take a while! 4 x primer 2 undercoat 1 x 50:50 mix and 2 x top coat, that's 9 days per colour, never mind the varnish which is 1 coat of penetration plus 6 top coats, so 7 days for the underside and another 7 for the inside. Almost forgot, the inside has some white. That's another 9 days. I started painting/varnishing one coat per day on 11 Nov and finished 5 weeks later. A little time consuming but worth every minute, well I think it was, you decide..........................I might be slightly bias plus I'm still suffering withdrawal symptoms from lack of paint fumes.
Due to weathering on the wood I was fairly sure the majority of the hull would have to be painted but I could see what looked like a sound wood line along the top of the hull. I decided to leave a strip of wood that I would varnish. To give a nice clean line I glued some mahogany strips along the side. I also wanted to reinforce the rear seat as it was a little flexible as the ply has been repaired so I also added some more strips on here and screwed them through the ply into the underside strips. I also replaced all the brass screws that I could, most were badly corroded as she'd been in the sea at some stage in her life. Now she was ready for paint.But what paint? I wasn't going to cut corners here but after reading up decided that epoxy based paint might be too stiff for an old wooden hull. International paints toplac is not a paint that is designed for permanent submersion but as I can't see her being in the water for more than 8 - 10 hours I think It's good enough for that. For the varnish I settled for Deks Olje 1 & 2 because of the good penetration and ease of repair.Shopping list: Paint all 750ml - 2 x grey Yacht primer. 1 x white precote. 1 x red precote. 1 x rustic red toplac. 1 x ivory toplac. Varnish all 1 ltr 2x deks' part 1. 2 x deks' part 2. The wife was right, this was starting to cost!So reading the instructions on the tin this was going to take a while! 4 x primer 2 undercoat 1 x 50:50 mix and 2 x top coat, that's 9 days per colour, never mind the varnish which is 1 coat of penetration plus 6 top coats, so 7 days for the underside and another 7 for the inside. Almost forgot, the inside has some white. That's another 9 days. I started painting/varnishing one coat per day on 11 Nov and finished 5 weeks later. A little time consuming but worth every minute, well I think it was, you decide..........................I might be slightly bias plus I'm still suffering withdrawal symptoms from lack of paint fumes.
More next week, Paul.
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